 | Don Bruder <dak | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/5/2008 7:47:32 PM |
| 0 |   |
| In article
<5ca00c33-924b-40ff-ab06-cfa3d8b7015c@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
> We're still redoing alot of our fencing.
> From 5 strand of barbed wire to electric and barbed wire.
> Every other strand is electric.
>
> So while I was out clearing brush and other crap out from under the
> fence I
> got to thinking about the charger and grounding it.
>
> Since all the barbed wire is attached to t-posts, why couldn't I just
> use the
> barbed wire as the fencers ground instead of putting in ground rods ?
>
> Almost make sense or am I being stupid again ?
>
> Randy
Almost make sense? Nah, makes pretty good sense *IN SOME SITUATIONS*
Trouble with it is that if you're running horses in it, barbed wire is
bad news all by itself. Yes, John, I'm quite aware that "they" did it
that way for decades. However, now-days, "we" know that barbed wired for
cattle is fine, but barbed wire for horses is generally a recipe for a
shredded horse. Add "heat it up" to the equation, and you've got a
situation that could turn massively ugly even faster than "just plain"
barbed wire entanglement tends to as the horse gets caught, then instead
of standing calmly, maybe hollering for help every now and then, to be
rescued by a two-legger as many "fence-broke" horses will do, the poor
beast gets zapped over and over again, with the resulting panic-stricken
frenzy to get away from the zaps causing even more damage than a "plain
entanglement" ever dreamed of.
However, that having been said, and discounting the politics/personal
beliefs/whatever of the barbed wire plus horses equals good, bad, or
indifferent debate...
Your idea has merit, and although it's usually done with smooth wire
rather than barbed, is a fairly "standard" concept in arid environments
where it's difficult or impossible to get a decent ground system set up
for a fence. It's also useful for predator-exclusion. Typical "routine"
is (from the top of the post) hot-ground-hot-ground-hot, with 8 inch
spacing between hot and ground wires in a pair, and about 8 inches from
dirt to the bottom hot wire.
Even with such a setup, however, you *STILL* need to sink at least one,
and preferably three, "for real" ground rod(s) and then wire it/them to
the charger as specified. ("For real" as in minimum 6 feet long, 8 feet
is better, by 3/8"-1/2" diameter, copper clad or galvanized steel rods
pounded all-but-space-to-connect-the-ground-wire deep)
--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
|
| rjmacres@yahoo. | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/5/2008 8:31:30 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Apr 5, 1:47=A0pm, Don Bruder <dak...@sonic.net> wrote:
> In article
> <5ca00c33-924b-40ff-ab06-cfa3d8b70...@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
>
>
>
>
>
> =A0rjmac...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > We're still redoing alot of our fencing.
> > From 5 strand of barbed wire to electric and barbed wire.
> > Every other strand is electric.
>
> > So while I was out clearing brush and other crap out from under the
> > fence I
> > got to thinking about the charger and grounding it.
>
> > Since all the barbed wire is attached to t-posts, =A0why couldn't I just=
> > use the
> > barbed wire as the fencers ground instead of putting in ground rods ?
>
> > Almost make sense or am I being stupid again ?
>
> > Randy
>
> Almost make sense? Nah, makes pretty good sense *IN SOME SITUATIONS*
>
> Trouble with it is that if you're running horses in it, barbed wire is
> bad news all by itself. Yes, John, I'm quite aware that "they" did it
> that way for decades. However, now-days, "we" know that barbed wired for
> cattle is fine, but barbed wire for horses is generally a recipe for a
> shredded horse. Add "heat it up" to the equation, and you've got a
> situation that could turn massively ugly even faster than "just plain"
> barbed wire entanglement tends to as the horse gets caught, then instead
> of standing calmly, maybe hollering for help every now and then, to be
> rescued by a two-legger as many "fence-broke" horses will do, the poor
> beast gets zapped over and over again, with the resulting panic-stricken
> frenzy to get away from the zaps causing even more damage than a "plain
> entanglement" ever dreamed of.
>
> However, that having been said, and discounting the politics/personal
> beliefs/whatever of the barbed wire plus horses equals good, bad, or
> indifferent debate...
>
> Your idea has merit, and although it's usually done with smooth wire
> rather than barbed, is a fairly "standard" concept in arid environments
> where it's difficult or impossible to get a decent ground system set up
> for a fence. It's also useful for predator-exclusion. Typical "routine"
> is (from the top of the post) hot-ground-hot-ground-hot, with 8 inch
> spacing between hot and ground wires in a pair, and about 8 inches from
> dirt to the bottom hot wire.
>
> Even with such a setup, however, you *STILL* need to sink at least one,
> and preferably three, "for real" ground rod(s) and then wire it/them to
> the charger as specified. ("For real" as in minimum 6 feet long, 8 feet
> is better, by 3/8"-1/2" diameter, copper clad or galvanized steel rods
> pounded all-but-space-to-connect-the-ground-wire deep)
>
> --
> Don Bruder - dak...@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitel=
ist,
> or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndSha=
dow"
> somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without=
my
> ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more =
info- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
OK, lecture understood.
Let me clarify part of it.
It's not barbed wire.
It's twisted cable.
But you say twisted cable and most people will give you a
blank stare like you're nuts.
Randy
|
| Don Bruder <dak | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/6/2008 1:18:55 AM |
| 0 | |
| In article
<3ed6c448-7ba1-4e2c-935a-db9a5afd4202@2g2000hsn.googlegroups.com>,
rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
> On Apr 5, 1:47 pm, Don Bruder <dak...@sonic.net> wrote:
> > In article
> > <5ca00c33-924b-40ff-ab06-cfa3d8b70...@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > rjmac...@yahoo.com wrote:
> > > We're still redoing alot of our fencing.
> > > From 5 strand of barbed wire to electric and barbed wire.
> > > Every other strand is electric.
> >
> > > So while I was out clearing brush and other crap out from under the
> > > fence I
> > > got to thinking about the charger and grounding it.
> >
> > > Since all the barbed wire is attached to t-posts, why couldn't I just
> > > use the
> > > barbed wire as the fencers ground instead of putting in ground rods ?
> >
> > > Almost make sense or am I being stupid again ?
> >
> > > Randy
> >
> > Almost make sense? Nah, makes pretty good sense *IN SOME SITUATIONS*
> >
> > Trouble with it is that if you're running horses in it, barbed wire is
> > bad news all by itself. Yes, John, I'm quite aware that "they" did it
> > that way for decades. However, now-days, "we" know that barbed wired for
> > cattle is fine, but barbed wire for horses is generally a recipe for a
> > shredded horse. Add "heat it up" to the equation, and you've got a
> > situation that could turn massively ugly even faster than "just plain"
> > barbed wire entanglement tends to as the horse gets caught, then instead
> > of standing calmly, maybe hollering for help every now and then, to be
> > rescued by a two-legger as many "fence-broke" horses will do, the poor
> > beast gets zapped over and over again, with the resulting panic-stricken
> > frenzy to get away from the zaps causing even more damage than a "plain
> > entanglement" ever dreamed of.
> >
> > However, that having been said, and discounting the politics/personal
> > beliefs/whatever of the barbed wire plus horses equals good, bad, or
> > indifferent debate...
> >
> > Your idea has merit, and although it's usually done with smooth wire
> > rather than barbed, is a fairly "standard" concept in arid environments
> > where it's difficult or impossible to get a decent ground system set up
> > for a fence. It's also useful for predator-exclusion. Typical "routine"
> > is (from the top of the post) hot-ground-hot-ground-hot, with 8 inch
> > spacing between hot and ground wires in a pair, and about 8 inches from
> > dirt to the bottom hot wire.
> >
> > Even with such a setup, however, you *STILL* need to sink at least one,
> > and preferably three, "for real" ground rod(s) and then wire it/them to
> > the charger as specified. ("For real" as in minimum 6 feet long, 8 feet
> > is better, by 3/8"-1/2" diameter, copper clad or galvanized steel rods
> > pounded all-but-space-to-connect-the-ground-wire deep)
> >
> > --
> > Don Bruder - dak...@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my
> > whitelist,
> > or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text
> > "PopperAndShadow"
> > somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without
> > my
> > ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more
> > info- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
>
> OK, lecture understood.
> Let me clarify part of it.
> It's not barbed wire.
> It's twisted cable.
> But you say twisted cable and most people will give you a
> blank stare like you're nuts.
Nah, you're not nuts - Dey's jus' iggernant folk :)
But since you're going with twisted cable, you can ignore the
barbed-wire "lecture that wasn't meant to be one, but I guess it might
have turned into one - sorry" part. ;)
If you're using the twisted cable, you're doing it almost exactly like
folks in Nevada, Utah, and Arizona do things. The "real" ground rod is
still needed, though, if for no other reason than trying to keep your
charger from frying to extra-crispy mode when a thunderstorm goes over.
--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info
|
| letterman@inval | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/6/2008 7:09:26 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 13:31:30 -0700 (PDT), rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
>On Apr 5, 1:47?pm, Don Bruder <dak...@sonic.net> wrote:
>> In article
>> <5ca00c33-924b-40ff-ab06-cfa3d8b70...@d45g2000hsc.googlegroups.com>,
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ?rjmac...@yahoo.com wrote:
>> > We're still redoing alot of our fencing.
>> > From 5 strand of barbed wire to electric and barbed wire.
>> > Every other strand is electric.
>>
>> > So while I was out clearing brush and other crap out from under the
>> > fence I
>> > got to thinking about the charger and grounding it.
>>
>> > Since all the barbed wire is attached to t-posts, ?why couldn't I just
>> > use the
>> > barbed wire as the fencers ground instead of putting in ground rods ?
>>
>> > Almost make sense or am I being stupid again ?
>>
>> > Randy
>>
>> Almost make sense? Nah, makes pretty good sense *IN SOME SITUATIONS*
>>
>> Trouble with it is that if you're running horses in it, barbed wire is
>> bad news all by itself. Yes, John, I'm quite aware that "they" did it
>> that way for decades. However, now-days, "we" know that barbed wired for
>> cattle is fine, but barbed wire for horses is generally a recipe for a
>> shredded horse. Add "heat it up" to the equation, and you've got a
>> situation that could turn massively ugly even faster than "just plain"
>> barbed wire entanglement tends to as the horse gets caught, then instead
>> of standing calmly, maybe hollering for help every now and then, to be
>> rescued by a two-legger as many "fence-broke" horses will do, the poor
>> beast gets zapped over and over again, with the resulting panic-stricken
>> frenzy to get away from the zaps causing even more damage than a "plain
>> entanglement" ever dreamed of.
>>
>> However, that having been said, and discounting the politics/personal
>> beliefs/whatever of the barbed wire plus horses equals good, bad, or
>> indifferent debate...
>>
>> Your idea has merit, and although it's usually done with smooth wire
>> rather than barbed, is a fairly "standard" concept in arid environments
>> where it's difficult or impossible to get a decent ground system set up
>> for a fence. It's also useful for predator-exclusion. Typical "routine"
>> is (from the top of the post) hot-ground-hot-ground-hot, with 8 inch
>> spacing between hot and ground wires in a pair, and about 8 inches from
>> dirt to the bottom hot wire.
>>
>> Even with such a setup, however, you *STILL* need to sink at least one,
>> and preferably three, "for real" ground rod(s) and then wire it/them to
>> the charger as specified. ("For real" as in minimum 6 feet long, 8 feet
>> is better, by 3/8"-1/2" diameter, copper clad or galvanized steel rods
>> pounded all-but-space-to-connect-the-ground-wire deep)
>>
>> --
>> Don Bruder - dak...@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
>> or the subject of the message doesn't contain the exact text "PopperAndShadow"
>> somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
>> ever knowing it arrived. Sorry... <http://www.sonic.net/~dakidd> for more info- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
>OK, lecture understood.
>Let me clarify part of it.
>It's not barbed wire.
>It's twisted cable.
>But you say twisted cable and most people will give you a
>blank stare like you're nuts.
>
>Randy
Barbless is the correct wording for that stuff. If I understand you,
it's barb wire without the barbs. I know electric fence wire breaks
too easily so I am with you for doing it that way.
As far as grounding, I'd drive one ground rod. Keep it at least 25
feet from your electrical system ground and any other grounds like for
phone or tv antenna. Connect the fencer ground to BOTH the ground rod
and the barbless strands on the fence that go to the t-posts. More
grounding is better than less.
Years ago, I had a fencer that was only meant to be setup temporarily.
I drove a 3 foot piece of 1/2" galv pipe in the ground and that was
all there was for grounding. During an extended dry spell, the fence
quit working. I checked the whole fence and nothing was broken or
shorted. Later that day I thought that maybe the ground wire had
broken where it connects to this pipe. When I touched the pipe I got
knocked on my ass, worse than touching the fence itself. This poor
ground just quit working. I left the hose run by that pipe and the
fence worked again. A few days later I put in an actual copper coated
10 foot ground rod and never had that problem again. Although last
summer we had a real dry spell of weather. I put a little water
around the rods on all my fencers, as well as the rods for the
electrical system.... just to be safe.
|
| letterman@inval | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/6/2008 7:19:08 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Sat, 5 Apr 2008 13:37:10 -0700 (PDT), rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
>On Apr 5, 2:10?pm, Whispurr the Cat <whatsup...@now.invalid> wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm sure I haven't run as much fence as Don has, and don't mean to say he's
>> wrong, but, I've used your suggested method successfully for a number of
>> years on a short-line-single-strand-cattle-exclusion-from-saplings
>> application.
>>
>> If you decide to sink 'real' grounds, let me know how they go 6' into that
>> Mozark loam. ;-)
>>
>> Steve
>> southiowa- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>Howdy Steve.
>We've had so much rain that I have t-posts that are popping out of the
>wet ground. I've had to pound 8 of them back down today. Pain in the
>butt.
>
>Just about done running wire. Or at least for the day. Got 1 gate I
>need
>to jump the wire around/over/under. Going to run it thru an old
>rubber
>garden hose on the ground for now and call it a day. Will try
>hooking
>the charger ground to the twisted cable and see what happens. Since
>the
>cable is not hot I think it should work for now. Especially since
>all the
>corners and line posts are 4 inch steel. I would think that would
>make a
>pretty good ground. Will see.
>
>Bring your rifle and come on down. Been seeing a couple of new
>"critters"
>that scare the hell out of me. They look alot like a coyote but they
>are way
>to big. I would guess around 75 pounds worth. They are not afraid
>of people
>but I only seem to run across them when I don't have a gun handy. I'm
>guessing
>they are a wolf and either dog or coyote cross. They just walk off
>when they
>see you and I've been within 30 yards of them.
>
>Randy
This should work just fine when things are wet like that, but there
will someday be a dry spell, and your posts are only in about a foot.
That wont be a suitable ground. As someone else mentioned, lightning
needs a good ground or your fencer will burn up. (Not that it can't
even with a good ground, but it's better chance of surviving with a
good ground). Ground rods are only about $15. Spend the money.
Drive them with a t-post driver until there is only are about 2 feet
to go, then use a small sledge hammer. It's a little work, small
expense, but well worth it. Be sure to use a proper clamp made for
ground rods.
By the way, how do people prevent t-posts from pulling out of the soil
on hills, when using barb or barbless wire? I've fought with that for
years on about 5 posts. I even added posts on both sides of the
trouble makers, which helped but not 100% guaranteed.
THere must be a way to fix this problem.
|
| rjmacres@yahoo. | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/6/2008 7:31:06 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Apr 6, 1:19=A0pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>
> This should work just fine when things are wet like that, but there
> will someday be a dry spell, and your posts are only in about a foot.
> That wont be a suitable ground. =A0As someone else mentioned, lightning
> needs a good ground or your fencer will burn up. =A0(Not that it can't
> even with a good ground, but it's better chance of surviving with a
> good ground). =A0Ground rods are only about $15. =A0Spend the money.
> Drive them with a t-post driver until there is only are about 2 feet
> to go, then use a small sledge hammer. =A0It's a little work, small
> expense, but well worth it. =A0Be sure to use a proper clamp made for
> ground rods.
>
> By the way, how do people prevent t-posts from pulling out of the soil
> on hills, when using barb or barbless wire? =A0I've fought with that for
> years on about 5 posts. =A0I even added posts on both sides of the
> trouble makers, which helped but not 100% guaranteed.
> THere must be a way to fix this problem.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
I broke down and put a ground rod in today. We use a solar fencer so
it's
all hooked up but still charging the battery. And I still need to put
insulators
on the gates and wire those up. That should keep the damned wild
dogs from
climbing up and over the gates again.
We had 8 t-posts pull up this past week. I pounded them back down
but
I think I will replace them with 7 footers in the coming week or so.
They
may pull a little bit but they should still be in the ground and
holding. Pounding
t-posts in all this rock is just a joy to behold. Rattles your teeth.
Randy
|
| letterman@inval | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 3:23:58 AM |
| 0 | |
| On Sun, 6 Apr 2008 12:31:06 -0700 (PDT), rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
>On Apr 6, 1:19?pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>>
>> This should work just fine when things are wet like that, but there
>> will someday be a dry spell, and your posts are only in about a foot.
>> That wont be a suitable ground. ?As someone else mentioned, lightning
>> needs a good ground or your fencer will burn up. ?(Not that it can't
>> even with a good ground, but it's better chance of surviving with a
>> good ground). ?Ground rods are only about $15. ?Spend the money.
>> Drive them with a t-post driver until there is only are about 2 feet
>> to go, then use a small sledge hammer. ?It's a little work, small
>> expense, but well worth it. ?Be sure to use a proper clamp made for
>> ground rods.
>>
>> By the way, how do people prevent t-posts from pulling out of the soil
>> on hills, when using barb or barbless wire? ?I've fought with that for
>> years on about 5 posts. ?I even added posts on both sides of the
>> trouble makers, which helped but not 100% guaranteed.
>> THere must be a way to fix this problem.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>I broke down and put a ground rod in today. We use a solar fencer so
>it's
>all hooked up but still charging the battery. And I still need to put
>insulators
>on the gates and wire those up. That should keep the damned wild
>dogs from
>climbing up and over the gates again.
>
>We had 8 t-posts pull up this past week. I pounded them back down
>but
>I think I will replace them with 7 footers in the coming week or so.
>They
>may pull a little bit but they should still be in the ground and
>holding. Pounding
>t-posts in all this rock is just a joy to behold. Rattles your teeth.
>
>Randy
Hi Randy
Glad you got it all together. I hope your ground rod goes in if you
got all that rock.
Climbing wild dogs? What are they coyotes, or what? We got coyotes
in the area. I hear them but they dont come close to my buildings.
Of course they are supposedly afraid of mules, and we have a mule. I
hope the coyotes are afraid of mules because of their scent, not
because of what the mules do to them. Our mule would probably go
hide. He's a 13.2 hand 6 year old stud. His idea of aggression is
putting his head on my shoulder and falling asleep or laying in his
hay and eating around himself. His companion is a mini-pony gelding.
If pony wants his food, he goes and hides because pony pinned his ears
back. We planned to geld him about 5 years ago, but why bother. He's
too lazy and laid back now, he might need the testosterone to keep him
on his feet. :) I'm afraid if he saw a coyote he'd run in his shed to
hide.
Good idea with the longer posts. I've thought about that, but I've
never done it. I was thinking about putting some concrete around the
posts that pull up, but since I added the extra posts they seem to
stay in place pretty well. Once a year I hammer them down a little
though.
I never owned a solar fencer. I heard they work well, but can get
weak when there is no sun for days. Can you charge their battery with
electric? Seems like it would be a good idea to have one of those
black transformers to plug in and charge them when needed.
If you cant get your ground rod in because of the rock, I have heard
of people digging a trench down to the rock and laying them
horizontally. Of course thats a lot more work to dig. Hope you can
find a good spot to drive it without hitting rocks.
Good Luck
|
| Don Bruder <dak | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 4:56:43 AM |
| 0 | |
| In article <t38iv3dkofnl617bda5ou8idd9mm9o6l30@4ax.com>,
letterman@invalid.com wrote:
> By the way, how do people prevent t-posts from pulling out of the soil
> on hills, when using barb or barbless wire? I've fought with that for
> years on about 5 posts. I even added posts on both sides of the
> trouble makers, which helped but not 100% guaranteed.
> THere must be a way to fix this problem.
If you're talking about "down into a valley, then back up the other
side", read on. Otherwise ignore me :)
(And sorry in advance, but this one takes more to describe than it takes
to actually DO it, so this will get a bit "windy"... Definitely one of
those "A picture is worth a thousand words" concepts.)
Run down the slope to the bottom, then right at the bottom of the slope,
either right where the downhill levels out, or where it starts going
back up, sink a post. Now sink a post about halfway between where that
last post is at the bottom of the slope, and the point where you start
going back up-slope. And one more, right where you start going back
up-slope. What you want to end up with is three posts close together.
(if you plant 'em about 2 feet apart, that's probably about as good as
you can get) One post right at where the slope stops going down, Another
right where the slope starts going back up, and one halfway between the
two. Now, working from the "coming down the slope" side, hook your wires
to the "bottom-of-the-down-slope" and "middle" posts, just like normal.
Then, run your wires to the third, "bottom-of-the-up-slope" post, but
instead of spacing them normally, tie them all off solid to that post as
low as possible, and cut your strands after that tie-off. Strain that
run from the other end.
Now, starting from the post at the bottom of the down-slope run, tie all
your wires as low as possible, then run to the "middle" post, spacing
properly there, and continuing (with proper spacing) to the "going up"
post, and continue the run as usual. You end up with the middle post
carrying two complete sets of wires, properly spaced, and the two posts
on either side of it having one properly spaced set, and one "tied off
at the bottom of the post" set. Strain at the far end of that run.
That breaks the "lift force" that comes from the wires trying to assume
the straightest path between the two highest posts on the sides of the
slope - when you strain the wires, they want to pull as straight and
short as possible - It's kind of like having a man down in a hole, and
dropping the middle of a rope to him, then having two people each grab
one of the ends and back away from the hole and each other in order to
to lift him out.
By breaking the wires at the bottom, the "straightest path" is from the
tie-off post at the bottom to the highest post on the slope, rather than
a straight line between the two highest posts.
Don't forget to use insulators for any hot wires at the tie-offs, and
jumper the hot-wires together on the middle post...
--
Don Bruder - dakidd@sonic.net - If your "From:" address isn't on my whitelist,
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somewhere, any message sent to this address will go in the garbage without my
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|
| rjmacres@yahoo. | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 12:29:19 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Apr 6, 9:23=A0pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>
> Hi Randy
>
> Glad you got it all together. =A0I hope your ground rod goes in if you
> got all that rock.
>
> Climbing wild dogs? =A0What are they coyotes, or what? =A0We got coyotes
> in the area. =A0I hear them but they dont come close to my buildings.
> Of course they are supposedly afraid of mules, and we have a mule. =A0I
> hope the coyotes are afraid of mules because of their scent, not
> because of what the mules do to them. =A0Our mule would probably go
> hide. =A0He's a 13.2 hand 6 year old stud. =A0His idea of aggression is
> putting his head on my shoulder and falling asleep or laying in his
> hay and eating around himself. =A0His companion is a mini-pony gelding.
> If pony wants his food, he goes and hides because pony pinned his ears
> back. =A0We planned to geld him about 5 years ago, but why bother. =A0He's=
> too lazy and laid back now, he might need the testosterone to keep him
> on his feet. :) I'm afraid if he saw a coyote he'd run in his shed to
> hide.
>
> Good idea with the longer posts. =A0I've thought about that, but I've
> never done it. =A0I was thinking about putting some concrete around the
> posts that pull up, but since I added the extra posts they seem to
> stay in place pretty well. =A0Once a year I hammer them down a little
> though.
>
> I never owned a solar fencer. =A0I heard they work well, but can get
> weak when there is no sun for days. =A0Can you charge their battery with
> electric? =A0Seems like it would be a good idea to have one of those
> black transformers to plug in and charge them when needed.
>
> If you cant get your ground rod in because of the rock, I have heard
> of people digging a trench down to the rock and laying them
> horizontally. =A0Of course thats a lot more work to dig. Hope you can
> find a good spot to drive it without hitting rocks.
>
> Good Luck- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The wild dogs are pretty much just that. Wild or feral dogs.
Some of them are coydogs and some are wolf dogs but most are just
dogs of various assorted sizes. Some were dumped, some were bred
wild
and I think someone is restocking the woods with them from time to
time.
Hard telling why someone would do that but I have some ideas.
At 1 time there were over 50 of them. They got thinned out quite a
bit but
now there are more again.
It pretty much sucks. Out fencing with a pistol on your belt and
shotgun real
close by isn't as fun as it sounds.
Randy
|
| "JC" <dontbothe | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 1:29:31 PM |
| 0 | |
|
<rjmacres@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:bf2693d1-11f9-4188-b10d-063ef5401bc7@t54g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
On Apr 6, 9:23 pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>
> Hi Randy
>
> Glad you got it all together. I hope your ground rod goes in if you
> got all that rock.
>
> Climbing wild dogs? What are they coyotes, or what? We got coyotes
> in the area. I hear them but they dont come close to my buildings.
> Of course they are supposedly afraid of mules, and we have a mule. I
> hope the coyotes are afraid of mules because of their scent, not
> because of what the mules do to them. Our mule would probably go
> hide. He's a 13.2 hand 6 year old stud. His idea of aggression is
> putting his head on my shoulder and falling asleep or laying in his
> hay and eating around himself. His companion is a mini-pony gelding.
> If pony wants his food, he goes and hides because pony pinned his ears
> back. We planned to geld him about 5 years ago, but why bother. He's
> too lazy and laid back now, he might need the testosterone to keep him
> on his feet. :) I'm afraid if he saw a coyote he'd run in his shed to
> hide.
>
> Good idea with the longer posts. I've thought about that, but I've
> never done it. I was thinking about putting some concrete around the
> posts that pull up, but since I added the extra posts they seem to
> stay in place pretty well. Once a year I hammer them down a little
> though.
>
> I never owned a solar fencer. I heard they work well, but can get
> weak when there is no sun for days. Can you charge their battery with
> electric? Seems like it would be a good idea to have one of those
> black transformers to plug in and charge them when needed.
>
> If you cant get your ground rod in because of the rock, I have heard
> of people digging a trench down to the rock and laying them
> horizontally. Of course thats a lot more work to dig. Hope you can
> find a good spot to drive it without hitting rocks.
>
> Good Luck- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
The wild dogs are pretty much just that. Wild or feral dogs.
Some of them are coydogs and some are wolf dogs but most are just
dogs of various assorted sizes. Some were dumped, some were bred
wild
and I think someone is restocking the woods with them from time to
time.
Hard telling why someone would do that but I have some ideas.
At 1 time there were over 50 of them. They got thinned out quite a
bit but
now there are more again.
It pretty much sucks. Out fencing with a pistol on your belt and
shotgun real
close by isn't as fun as it sounds.
Randy
A well placed rubber bowl of anti-freeze will cure the wild dog problem. You
just have to be aware that it might also rid you of some desirables for
awhile too.
|
| letterman@inval | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 5:41:10 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Mon, 7 Apr 2008 05:29:19 -0700 (PDT), rjmacres@yahoo.com wrote:
>On Apr 6, 9:23?pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>>
>> Hi Randy
>>
>> Glad you got it all together. ?I hope your ground rod goes in if you
>> got all that rock.
>>
>> Climbing wild dogs? ?What are they coyotes, or what? ?We got coyotes
>> in the area. ?I hear them but they dont come close to my buildings.
>> Of course they are supposedly afraid of mules, and we have a mule. ?I
>> hope the coyotes are afraid of mules because of their scent, not
>> because of what the mules do to them. ?Our mule would probably go
>> hide. ?He's a 13.2 hand 6 year old stud. ?His idea of aggression is
>> putting his head on my shoulder and falling asleep or laying in his
>> hay and eating around himself. ?His companion is a mini-pony gelding.
>> If pony wants his food, he goes and hides because pony pinned his ears
>> back. ?We planned to geld him about 5 years ago, but why bother. ?He's
>> too lazy and laid back now, he might need the testosterone to keep him
>> on his feet. :) I'm afraid if he saw a coyote he'd run in his shed to
>> hide.
>>
>> Good idea with the longer posts. ?I've thought about that, but I've
>> never done it. ?I was thinking about putting some concrete around the
>> posts that pull up, but since I added the extra posts they seem to
>> stay in place pretty well. ?Once a year I hammer them down a little
>> though.
>>
>> I never owned a solar fencer. ?I heard they work well, but can get
>> weak when there is no sun for days. ?Can you charge their battery with
>> electric? ?Seems like it would be a good idea to have one of those
>> black transformers to plug in and charge them when needed.
>>
>> If you cant get your ground rod in because of the rock, I have heard
>> of people digging a trench down to the rock and laying them
>> horizontally. ?Of course thats a lot more work to dig. Hope you can
>> find a good spot to drive it without hitting rocks.
>>
>> Good Luck- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>The wild dogs are pretty much just that. Wild or feral dogs.
>Some of them are coydogs and some are wolf dogs but most are just
>dogs of various assorted sizes. Some were dumped, some were bred
>wild
>and I think someone is restocking the woods with them from time to
>time.
>Hard telling why someone would do that but I have some ideas.
>
>At 1 time there were over 50 of them. They got thinned out quite a
>bit but
>now there are more again.
>
>It pretty much sucks. Out fencing with a pistol on your belt and
>shotgun real
>close by isn't as fun as it sounds.
>
>Randy
Ok, I see what you got. I never understood why people release dogs in
the woods. We had some assholes neighbors do the same thing with some
puppies. Someone saw them doing it, and the sheriffs were called, who
in turn got the humane society. We heard about it, and I talked to
the sheriffs, and told them we'd go out on our horses and see if we
could find them. We found 2 of the 5 still alive, one dead one which
someone had shot, never found the other 2. The sheriff and humane
society caused a lot of trouble for the assholes that released them.
One of our frineds took one of the pups and has a nice dog now. The
HS took the other to the shelter.
Several years ago we had a feral dog come here. He was scared, but
seemed friendly. He stayed here for a few days. I fed him and we
planned to either keep him or find him a home. That was until he
killed one of our barn cats right in front of me. I went to shoot the
damn thing, but my other half put up a big fuss. I tied it up, and
called the sheriffs and told them that either they come and get it, or
I'll shoot it. They came and got it. I dont know what they did with
it, nor do I care. From that day on, I wont befriend any feral dogs.
A few have been run off with my rifle, but I've never shot them.
Good luck with your fencing.
|
| rjmacres@yahoo. | | NewsGroup User |
| Re: Another electric fence question | 4/7/2008 7:01:43 PM |
| 0 | |
| On Apr 7, 11:41=A0am, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
> On Mon, 7 Apr 2008 05:29:19 -0700 (PDT), rjmac...@yahoo.com wrote:
> >On Apr 6, 9:23=A0pm, letter...@invalid.com wrote:
>
> >> Hi Randy
>
> >> Glad you got it all together. =A0I hope your ground rod goes in if you
> >> got all that rock.
>
> >> Climbing wild dogs? =A0What are they coyotes, or what? =A0We got coyote=
s
> >> in the area. =A0I hear them but they dont come close to my buildings.
> >> Of course they are supposedly afraid of mules, and we have a mule. =A0I=
> >> hope the coyotes are afraid of mules because of their scent, not
> >> because of what the mules do to them. =A0Our mule would probably go
> >> hide. =A0He's a 13.2 hand 6 year old stud. =A0His idea of aggression is=
> >> putting his head on my shoulder and falling asleep or laying in his
> >> hay and eating around himself. =A0His companion is a mini-pony gelding.=
> >> If pony wants his food, he goes and hides because pony pinned his ears
> >> back. =A0We planned to geld him about 5 years ago, but why bother. =A0H=
e's
> >> too lazy and laid back now, he might need the testosterone to keep him
> >> on his feet. :) I'm afraid if he saw a coyote he'd run in his shed to
> >> hide.
>
> >> Good idea with the longer posts. =A0I've thought about that, but I've
> >> never done it. =A0I was thinking about putting some concrete around the=
> >> posts that pull up, but since I added the extra posts they seem to
> >> stay in place pretty well. =A0Once a year I hammer them down a little
> >> though.
>
> >> I never owned a solar fencer. =A0I heard they work well, but can get
> >> weak when there is no sun for days. =A0Can you charge their battery wit=
h
> >> electric? =A0Seems like it would be a good idea to have one of those
> >> black transformers to plug in and charge them when needed.
>
> >> If you cant get your ground rod in because of the rock, I have heard
> >> of people digging a trench down to the rock and laying them
> >> horizontally. =A0Of course thats a lot more work to dig. Hope you can
> >> find a good spot to drive it without hitting rocks.
>
> >> Good Luck- Hide quoted text -
>
> >> - Show quoted text -
>
> >The wild dogs are pretty much just that. =A0Wild or feral dogs.
> >Some of them are coydogs and some are wolf dogs but most are just
> >dogs of various assorted sizes. =A0 Some were dumped, =A0some were bred
> >wild
> >and I think someone is restocking the woods with them from time to
> >time.
> >Hard telling why someone would do that but I have some ideas.
>
> >At 1 time there were over 50 of them. =A0 They got thinned out quite a
> >bit but
> >now there are more again.
>
> >It pretty much sucks. =A0 Out fencing with a pistol on your belt and
> >shotgun real
> >close by isn't as fun as it sounds.
>
> >Randy
>
> Ok, I see what you got. =A0I never understood why people release dogs in
> the woods. =A0We had some assholes neighbors do the same thing with some
> puppies. =A0Someone saw them doing it, and the sheriffs were called, who
> in turn got the humane society. =A0We heard about it, and I talked to
> the sheriffs, and told them we'd go out on our horses and see if we
> could find them. =A0We found 2 of the 5 still alive, one dead one which
> someone had shot, never found the other 2. =A0The sheriff and humane
> society caused a lot of trouble for the assholes that released them. =A0
> One of our frineds took one of the pups and has a nice dog now. =A0The
> HS took the other to the shelter. =A0
>
> Several years ago we had a feral dog come here. =A0He was scared, but
> seemed friendly. =A0He stayed here for a few days. =A0I fed him and we
> planned to either keep him or find him a home. =A0That was until he
> killed one of our barn cats right in front of me. =A0I went to shoot the
> damn thing, but my other half put up a big fuss. =A0I tied it up, and
> called the sheriffs and told them that either they come and get it, or
> I'll shoot it. =A0They came and got it. =A0I dont know what they did with
> it, nor do I care. =A0From that day on, I wont befriend any feral dogs.
> A few have been run off with my rifle, but I've never shot them. =A0
>
> Good luck with your fencing.- Hide quoted text -
>
I've had a few chats with the sheriff's dept about the dogs.
Only thing I got out of it was "Just shoot them".
And we have no humane society or animal control.
And these are not nice & friendly dogs anymore. Mean suckers
who would rather attack you as look at you.
Randy
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